(45% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir and 25% Pinot Meunier; 8 g/l dosage; L206454 17741): Pale orange. High-pitched red berry, orange zest and jasmine aromas, with suave mineral and smoky lees notes adding complexity. Spicy and precise on the palate, showing very good punch to its strawberry and bitter cherry flavors. Opens up smoothly with air and picks up a bitter rhubarb quality that lingers onto the long, tightly focused finish. This bottling showed more brawny character than many past renditions of this cuvée, but with no lack of vivacity.

A firm, tangy rose Champagne, with a lively bead, this offers flavors of pink grapefruit sorbet, blood orange and dried thyme, showing a subtle streak of smoky mineral that lingers on the finish. Drink now.

Crisp, dry and full of red-currant fruits and tight acidity, this is a delicious, young Champagne. It is textured and zesty, with layer of acidity vying with the perfumed fruit. This bottling really should age, so drink it from 2019.